This is an attempt to recreate one of the most delicious meals I have ever eaten. My cousin Knox organized the preparation: he prepared and grilled the meat and assigned the side dishes to my cousin Mary Hobart and me. Even with three people working it was a labor-intensive meal -- but worth every bit of it! I'm not sure these are exactly the same dishes we had, but they are in the same vein. I would suggest preparing the spices and ghee, mixing the yogurt and spices for the spinach and yogurt salad, and marinating the chicken the day before cooking.
The recipes come from a wonderful cookbook, Classic Indian Cooking, by Julie Sahni. This was Knox's favorite cookbook, and I found it on Amazon. If you like Indian food, it is well worth buying. The author was raised in India and moved to New York as an adult -- so she has learned to adapt Indian cooking to the American kitchen and to use ingredients available here.
Instructions for making ghee and for roasting and grinding the spices follow the recipes. You can use a light vegetable oil instead of ghee, and store-bought ground spices -- the results will still be delicious, just not quite as fabulous! I know some people substitute yellow food coloring for saffron, but I think the saffron gives a wonderful flavor and richness.
The tandoor is a special clay pit type of oven, and no home-cooked chicken will completely re-create the flavor of the tandoor. But Julie Sahni says these techniques (oven roasting, oven broiling, outdoor grilling) all produce more than satisfactory results. Knox grilled the meat outdoors, but since I don't have a grill I chose oven roasting. I include instructions for all three. The recipes are for 6 servings. Reduce amounts as needed.
Tandoori chicken should be served immediately after cooking, because it becomes too dry when it is cold.
Tandoori Chicken (Tandoori Murghi)
3 small broiling chickens (2 - 2 1/2 pounds) or packaged quartered chicken
2 1/2 teaspoons unseasoned natural meat tenderizer (she says Adolph's is excellent)
1/3 cup lemon juice
Marinade:
2 large garlic cloves
1 tablespoon chopped fresh ginger root
1 teaspoon ground roasted cumin seeds
1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom
1/2 teaspoon red pepper
1 teaspoon tandoori coloring or 1 tablespoon paprika
1/3 cup plain yogurt
ghee or vegetable oil for basting
Remove the wings and necks, quarter the chickens, and remove the skin (use kitchen towels to grip the chicken and pull it off). Prick the chicken all over with a fork, and make diagonal slashes 1/2 inch deep 1 inch apart. Place the meat in a large bowl.
Add meat tenderizer and lemon juice to chicken, rubbing them into the slashes and all over for about 2 minutes. Cover and marinate for 1/2 hour.
Put marinade ingredients into blender or food processor and blend until reduced to a smooth sauce.
Pour marinade over chicken pieces and mix, turning and tossing, to coat all pieces well (if you are using tandoori coloring use a fork or pastry brush to avoid staining your fingers).
Cover and marinate for 4 hours at room temperature or overnight in the refrigerator, turning several times. Do not marinate longer than 2 days.
Remove the chicken from the refrigerator at least 1 hour before cooking -- it should be at room temperature.
Oven Roasting:
Preheat oven to 500 - 550. Take chicken out of marinade and brush with ghee. Place pieces on a wire rack in a roasting pan and roast for 25-30 minutes, or until meat is cooked through. There is no need to baste with this method because the closed oven prevents drying.
Oven Broiling:
Preheat broiler. Place chicken pieces slashed side up on the rack and brush with ghee. Cook 2 or 3 inches from heat for 20 minutes. Turn and cook other side for 10 minutes or until cooked through. Brush often with ghee during cooking.
Outdoor Grilling:
Fire the coal about 1 1/2 hours before cooking, until a white ash forms over the surface of the coal. Place the grill at least 5 inches away from the heat and rub generously with oil. Place chicken pieces slashed side up on the grill and brush with ghee. Cook for 10 minutes, then turn, baste the other side, and cook for 10 minutes. Continue to cook, turning and basting every 10 minutes until chicken is done. Remember that because the chicken has marinated in a tenderizing solution it will cook more quickly.
Sweet Saffron Pilaf (Zarda)
2 cups basmati rice
1 teaspoon saffron threads
4 tablespoons ghee (or light vegetable oil)
10 whole cloves
8 green cardamom pods
1 stick cinnamon, 3 inches long
1/4 cup seedless raisins
1/4 cup sugar
1 1/4 teaspoons Kosher salt
Wash the rice and place in a bowl. Add 4 cups cold water and soak for 1/2 hour. Drain the rice, reserving the water, and set aside.
Place saffron threads on a small plate and powder it using the back of a spoon or your fingers. Add 2 tablespoons of water and continue mashing until thoroughly dissolved. Set aside.
Heat ghee over medium heat in a heavy-bottomed pan. Add cloves, cardamom, and cinnamon. Fry until they are lightly browned and puffed -- about 1 minute. Add the rice and and fry until rice is thoroughly coated with ghee and begins to brown -- about 3 minutes -- stirring constantly to avoid burning.
Add reserved water, saffron water, raisins, sugar, and salt. Stir to keep rice from settling. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer, partially covered, for 10 minutes or until most of the water is absorbed and the surface of the rice is filled with steamy holes. There is no need to stir, but if you must, use a fork to avoid crushing the grains of rice.
Cover the pan and reduce heat to the lowest possible setting. Let the rice steam for 10 minutes, then turn off the heat and let it rest for 5 minutes. The rice will remain warm for 20 minutes if left covered. Fluff with a fork before serving. The whole spices are not meant to be eaten, but will do no harm if they are.
Spinach and Yogurt Salad (Palak Raita)
1 cup cooked spinach (or cooked frozen chopped spinach)
1 1/2 cups plain yogurt
1/2 cup sour cream
1 teaspoon ground roasted cumin seeds
1 teaspoon ground roasted coriander seeds
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
1/4 teaspoon red pepper
1/2 teaspoon Kosher salt
(paprika)
Coarsely chop the spinach.
Put yogurt, sour cream, cumin, coriander, and black and red pepper in a bowl and mix thoroughly. (This can be done ahead and refrigerated).
When ready to serve, stir the salt and spinach into yogurt mixture. Sprinkle with cumin, coriander, and paprika if desired.
Usli Ghee (Indian Clarified Butter)
Indian clarified butter differs from the Western version by simmering the milk solids, which releases their liquid and creates a distinctive nutty flavor.
In a heavy 3-quart saucepan heat one pound of unsalted butter cut into small pieces over low heat -- it should not sizzle -- until completely melted (this should take from 5-15 minutes. Increase heat to medium. A thin layer of foam will form on top and the butter will begin to crackle as moisture is released from solids. Continue to simmer for about 10 minutes. It is not necessary to stir. The crackling will gradually stop and the foam will subside. At this point begin to stir constantly as foam forms again as the butter fat browns. As soon as the solids brown, turn off the heat and let the brown residue settle to the bottom. When the butter has cooled enough to handle, pour the clear liquid unto a jar making sure no residue gets in (you can strain through a double layer of cheesecloth to be sure). Let it cool completely, then cover the jar tightly.
Usli ghee will keep on the counter for 4-6 weeks if the room temperature is not more than 75, or in the refrigerator for 4 months, or in the freezer indefinitely.
Roasting and Grinding Spices (Masala Bhoonana aur Peesana)
Heat a heavy frying pan for 2 minutes over medium heat. Add spices and roast over medium heat, shaking the pan and stirring to avoid burning. For the first minute or two nothing will happen -- the spices are losing their moisture. Then they will start to brown and release fragrant smoke. Roast until they turn dark brown, turning down the heat if they seem to be browning too fast. Coriander seeds should take about 6 minutes, cumin about 8 minutes. Remove immediately from the pan when brown and put in a bowl to cool completely.
Put the spices in a coffee grinder, a spice mill, or a blender and grind to a fine powder.
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